Friday, October 30, 2009
Midnight Meanderings – a fragment
Rejecting the line of cabs in front of me, I head southwest with the vague idea that home is in that general direction. I may have lived here for four years, but I remain geographically stunted and directionally challenged. I take a left turn and find myself on a completely deserted street. The air is musky with the almost-rotting leaves of autumn and the lamplight casts a sienna filter over everything. Intricate lamps under the eaves and along the walls give just enough light for me to appreciate the details of the building facades and the quaint architecture of Shanghai’s French Concession. I stop to catch a photo of a huge stack of construction bamboo abandoned on the sidewalk across the street, elegant in its own right in the amber light. This city of mine is full of contradictions. For decades, the host of speckled plane trees lining these streets have solemnly witnessed them all.
It is unbelievably quiet. Walking in the thick of this deep silence I am as insignificant as the dead leaf fluttering beside me. Only the trees are aware of my coming and going. My thoughts turn inward and I consider the melancholy that had coaxed me into this adventure to begin with. It’s strange. I love the life I have now. There’s nothing more that I want. Save the relocation of my dear friends around the world to Shanghai, that is. But I’m a reasonable girl. I’m thankful for all that life has given me. So what’s with the melancholy?
I’ve been spending a lot of time alone in jazz clubs. It’s a bit weird, I know. But, first of all, I am weird, and second of all, I’ve fallen in love with this minx and nightly it lures me into its various lairs, taunting me to listen, to learn, to live within the music. I love it for its raw energy, its spirit of change, its intellect. Yet I confess that I often feel like a complete loser as I hang out in the dark, watching, photographing, writing, keeping my ears open, open, open as I take in whatever the minx is offering onstage that night. Listening to music is not the most social event. For one, it kind of requires not talking. It also requires convincing your friends that jazz is awesome. Even if they do agree, no one in their right mind is going to accompany you on your rounds every single week. So more often than not I fly solo. Which is cool for the most part.
Except, I’m a puppy dog. Anyone who knows me, knows that well. Sometimes even a regular bitch. But past the snapping jaws there’s the fundamental need to be liked. Lately, with my frequenting of music venues and shameless self-introductions to musicians, my puppy-dog insecurities have been catching up with me. To me, with their dedication to their art and their love of music, these musicians are kindred spirits of sorts. To them, I’m some random chick who keeps turning up. Not all of them, certainly. There are those who walk past, pretending not to see me, and there are those who seem to sincerely want to be acquainted. Perhaps it’s because I’m new to living in my art, that I think everyone else who’s doing the same is going to want to chase kittens together in the neighbor’s backyard. But I forget that they are all cats themselves. Ah well. This is the life you chose, as my brother-in-law would say.
I pass the stately night guards in front of the Dutch consulate, minding their post with the shared silence of the street, and think of the shared silence of humans in general. Beneath the layers of friends and lovers, spouses and family, every single one of us are alone. As insignificant as the dead leaf fluttering beside me. Doh. I said that already, didn’t I? Now that I am no longer in the corporate world, no longer in a nine-to-five post, I am no longer surrounded by humans by default. I’ve grown accustomed to being in my own head for most of the day, writing, writing, forever writing. Living inside your head is wonderful, but it can also be daunting. Troubling, sometimes, especially when you’re attempting to mine the depths and transform cold, hard ore into gold. Probably why I have such a hankering to get out of the house after office hours.
Another corner later and the city is rustling around me. I’m in a more commercial part of town now. There’s the lady in red, red cartoon-patterned pajamas that is, stopping by the ATM. There’s the crowd around the late-night skewers guy grilling all sorts of yummy goodness atop his mound of glowing coals. There’s the faint sound of someone practicing violin at midnight. There’s a lone window draped in red and lit from within, full of secrets. There’s a barber shop glowing pink, its furtive treasures lounging half-clothed beyond the pane, waiting for the right man to pass. ‘Leg shops,’ as my husband calls them. And where is this husband of yours, you may wonder? On a plane, en route from Beijing, and landing any second now. No matter where he is or where I am, he is always the warm ember presiding in the core of my soul.
There’s a rush of water beneath the manhole to my right and suddenly I hear it. Piano music, floating in the street and buzzing along the telephone lines draped precariously above my head. I look up to find the source. And there, above a dilapidated storefront, I see a small yellow square of light, shrouded by a dingy, makeshift curtain. I cross the street to stand beneath this unlikely font. The music is beautiful. A lilting piano ballad streaming into the night, the perfect score to my dead and fluttering leaf. It touches me that some anonymous soul above is feeling the exact same way that I am feeling in this moment. I walk away reluctantly after a minute or two. I want to make sure that I’m home by the time my husband arrives at the door, exhausted from his trip, worn out from being my constant ember.
Home is just a park’s length away now. I cross the large boulevard and my heart lightens as I pass the very serviced apartment that I stayed in four years ago when I was deciding whether or not to move to Shanghai, wondering what this fickle, fabulous city had in store. I had no idea how full and fulfilling my life here would be. Of course I didn’t. My husband, my Duraflame source, was still a couple months away from entering my life then.
My heart quickens as I enter the last dark alley before home, even though rationally I know that there is no random Jack lurking in the shadows ready to jump out and steal my iPhone. It is crazy how safe Shanghai feels. I scratch at the newly formed welts from the opportunistic mosquitoes I’ve met along the way, those last irritating troops perservering until the season's end. My war wounds from tonight’s adventure. Forty-five minutes after leaving the club, the cramp has gone gently into that good night. Ms. Green was right after all. Walk it off, Chan. Walk it off.
Sunday, July 12, 2009
Writing and Writhing - a fragment
Writing and writhing. The two aren’t very far from one another when you’re trying to write a novel. You write, you writhe around in self-doubt and confused tenses, then you write some more. Write, writhe, write, writhe. An endless seesaw that is the state of my mind these days.
“Hurrah! Things are making sense, I love my characters, everything is wonderful! I can almost touch the sun...Daddy!!”
“Mayday! Nothing’s right, I want to shoot my characters, everything sucks! I can almost see the color of Todd’s underwear...Mommy!!”
I’ve been writing for four months. Three straight, then a month’s hiatus ( I was travelling, gimme a break!), then another. I’ve set a schedule for myself now, much more disciplined than before, and my days start at 1:00 pm (or 1:30, sometimes 1:45, tough life, isn’t it?), and I write for hours until my eyes are blurry and my brain politely requests a hall pass. On a bad day it’s four, on a good day it’s seven. At the end of most days I sit back and think, darn, that wasn’t too bad, was it? Maybe I am a Writer after all! I relish in the words, the phrases, the lines, the paragraphs I’ve created that day, and all the dots and dashes in between.
But then there are those other days. I push away my laptop after hours of blinking cursors and Doubt creeps in. Ravenous, it wraps its long dark arms around me, sniffs my neck, rakes its bony fingers through my hair, presses the tips of its yellowed fingernails on my face, and asks me in a low but nasally hiss, “Who do you think you are? Do you think you can actually write something worthwhile? Worth reading?” A pause for breath, do these things actually breath?, and then the wraith continues, pressing closer to my face, “What makes you think you are not just another wanna-be, recycling emotions, recycling clichés, recycling garbage into garbage?”
And I am captive, I am hypnotized, I am frozen. My ego the size of a pea. The seesaw clatters to the ground with a thud. My butt hurts. Todd’s nowhere to be found. I am alone in a playground full of shadows.
Then my husband comes home, tired after a long day of work but jubilant all the same, and he looks at me with his kind, kind eyes and says, “So how did it go today?”
I tell him. He smiles and says with all the faith that has abandoned me, “You are a wonderful writer. There’s always tomorrow.”
Ignoring his compliment, I say, “Okay. I’ll work harder. I’ll work harder tomorrow.”
I dig my feet into the dirt and push off. The seesaw gives and I begin to rise again. Into the air, into the clouds. I look down and Todd’s back, grinning up at me from his perch below. Smiling feverishly, I lift my face to the sky.
Monday, May 04, 2009
Spring - a microstory
Monday, April 13, 2009
The Voice of Jazz featuring Universal Quartet
JZ More Than Jazz Concert Series: The Voice of Jazz – Universal Quartet
April 12th, 2009 at the Shanghai Oriental Art Center
Kites are flying above Pudong on an inspirationally sunny Sunday afternoon and I am headed to the Shanghai Oriental Art Center for the JZ More Than Jazz concert series. Today’s show features the mesmerizing chanteuse Jessica Maurer from Paris, whose vibrating tonsils first impressed me at JZ about a month ago. The quartet also includes French saxophonist Quentin Paquignon, Brazilian guitarist and singer Tinho Pereira, and Brazilian percussionist Leonardo Susi.
***
Universal Quartet is...
Jessica Maurer can be found regularly at CJW in Xintiandi Mondays and JZ on Wednesdays singing funk, jazz, and soul like a champ.
- Article originally posted on Urbanatomy Shanghai
Sunday, March 22, 2009
Shanghai International Literary Festival - Bill Zorzi
Shanghai International Literary Festival - Min Jin Lee
Monday, March 09, 2009
Stravinsky's The Soldier's Tale: A Review
Stravinsky's The Soldier's Tale - performed March 8th, 2009 at the Lyceum Theater in Shanghai
Ever-susceptible to marketing, I was intrigued by a red Devil’s mask when flipping through the latest That's Shanghai magazine last week. The Soldier’s Tale? Never heard of it. Stravinsky? Igor, right? I’m pretty sure my piano teacher mentioned him once or twice. Best do some research on good old Igor. After a few hours online and listening to his Best Of, I’m sold. Stravinsky is known for his departure from the norm, his challenging dissonance, his cockle-warming melodies, and inciting a Parisian riot with the first measures of his controversial Rite of Spring back in 1913. The Soldier’s Tale, first performed in 1918, is a fairly unique combination of narration, mime, ballet, and orchestra. Having failed to recruit any other friends to join me, I head out alone on a crisp Sunday afternoon anticipating a healthy dose of culture at the Lyceum Theater.
The theater itself is reminiscent of an older Shanghai, not large but a generous size for the kind of production that Stravinsky imagined. This piece could have been played in an open field, as symphony liner master Edward Downes mentions in his Guide to Symphonic Music. The nerd/loser that I am, I have actually brought along the tome in case today's liner notes prove unworthy, but in fact they are quite well-written, providing the history of the piece as well as ample information covering Stravinsky, his partner and writer Ramuz, the Lyceum Theater, and the performers.
The orchestra begins and I'm surprised that the lights are still up as the Narrator starts her tale, sight unseen. Then I notice that she's actually walking down the left aisle and ascending the stairs to her spot slightly upstage of the apron. She is outfitted with a plush velvet armchair and ottoman, complete with wine glass and carafe as imagined by Stravinsky and Ramuz. Only, today's production has chosen red wine versus the original white. Turns out that the Narrator is the lady I saw earlier sitting alone in the back row. She'd reminded me of the lady in Edward Hopper's New York Movie, equal parts beautiful and forlorn.
The lights dim and a few stragglers crouch into their seats in my row, third from the stage. Next thing I know some guy is flashing a light in my face and riffling through a book, not only late but quite in your face as well, I'm thinking. Then I realize he's way too dramatic to be an actual person and my timing is fortunate as he is now extending a hand for mine. Holy bejeezus, I've just been chosen by the Devil for audience participation! I take the Devil's hand and rise from my seat, then pull back, thinking I may be in deeper than I thought, but the Devil is a wiley old fellow and he draws me towards him as chuckles ripple through the audience. He leads me to the front row and sits me down in an empty seat. Score! Definitely like where he's going with this. He gives me one last unctuous smile and hops over to harass other audience members.
The story is about a Soldier who gets tricked by the Devil to swap his fiddle (aka his soul) for a magic book (aka material wealth). Stravinsky chose to represent the Soldier's soul with the violin, and the effect is poignant. Writing this on a scant budget during WWI, Stravinsky lined up only seven members of the orchestra, compared to the forty plus members in his prior success, The Firebird. Influenced by the birth of jazz, he chose to represent the high and low of each section: violin and upright bass, trumpet and trombone, clarinet and bassoon, and one mad percussionist with a timpani and a sandbox full of tinkering toys. The bassoon is one of my favorite orchestral instruments and throughout The Soldier's Tale it provides a steady moral center around which the Soldier's violin and the Devil's percussion duel it out.
Times of distress and hardship bring out the most interesting of innovations, and The Soldier's Tale is a clear representation of this. The Narrator is a critical player and provides the only voice we hear, while three actor/ballet performers mime and dance their way through the story. The Narrator in this case was fantastic, drawing us in with her various voices and animated performance. For some reason the liner notes credit a Stephen Fung as the English Narrator, but she was no Stephen. I wonder who she is, and am grateful to have had the chance to experience her version of the Narrator. The Soldier is played by Tian Duo Duo, an invigorating young actor with energy and expression to spare. Angelina Lim plays a graceful yet stalwart Princess, managing to be coy and extremely likable at the same time. Surely both are young artists to watch. The Devil in his many disguises is humorously depicted by Tang Huang, whose comedic timing is on the mark. All in, I thought the performers were excellent, and have the director, Alison M. Friedman, to thank for that. However, I was not blown away by the orchestra, the Xinya Kongqi Chamber Orchestra hailing from Beijing. Although the music was great, they lacked the same enthusiasm that the performers so whole-heartedly portrayed. In fact, at times they seemed a bit bored.
Lights go up an hour later and I leave the theater encouraged by the talent I've seen and what it represents for Shanghai's cultural scene. Even though The Soldier's Tale is a story about a man eventually claimed by the Devil, the premise of the work itself speaks of creativity adapting to tough times, a lesson that seems appropriate as we flounder through today's global recession. Here's to finding a way on tightening budgets and dreaming up out-of-the-box projects to be enjoyed by current and future generations!
Saturday, March 07, 2009
Shanghai International Literary Festival - Laura Pugno
Session with Laura Pugno - 6:00pm, Friday March 6
Having quit the corporate world last autumn to become a full-time writer, I have been very much looking forward to the 2009 Shanghai International Literary Festival. What better way to get my feet wet in Shanghai’s literary world? On the first day of SILF, I head to Glamour Bar to see Italian poetess Laura Pugno. I park myself in full view of the stage and am thankful for the glass of red in my hand. Surrounded by a fairly well-dressed lot engaged in a whirlwind of chatting and catching up, I feel quite sheepish in my hole-riddled jeans. Definitely out of place in a lounge full of what must be Shanghai’s literary elite.
A petite brunette with a kind face, Laura Pugno takes the stage and there are blind stone eyes projected behind her. The program coordinators were savvy about providing the audience with a small booklet of Pugno's work in English translations. M on the Bund’s owner, Michelle Garnaut, kicks off the session, along with Paolo Sabbatini, who in a lovely Italian accent provides a much needed introduction to a poetess and novelist who has somehow eluded Google.
Laura begins with thank you's all around and is fabulously adorable as she notes that this her first time in “Chee-na”. She begins to read her poetry in English and a series of photos by Elio Mazzacane scroll behind her. There's something alluring about an accented voice reciting gently; she could be reading her grocery list and I would still be mesmerized. A section of the photos are dedicated to the color gold, juxtaposing her collection Il Colore Oro, but as my mind wanders I can’t help but notice that it’s really more of a mustard. Il Colore Mostarda.
After her reading, she answers questions from the audience. One stands out in particular: whether or not much is lost in translation. She responds thoughtfully that something is lost and also gained in translation. It forces you to make choices since the language may not fit perfectly, and sometimes you have to give your work a different twist.
She’s requested to read in Italian and we’re in for a treat. There's always a love affair between a poet and her words, and this passion is obvious when Pugno presents her own Italian words. The rhythm is so different, it cannot be compared to the English. I may not gather the meaning, but I certainly sense the beauty as her lips wrap around the beloved words that have been carefully selected, nurtured and coddled. The spirit of each syllable infuses her poems as she recites.
After the session is over, I finally locate Laura by the DJ booth and am hovering shamelessly for her attention. Looking around the room, I wonder who all these people are in their polished suits. I feel like I’m at an investment banking conference, except there are way too many smiles going around. Kudos to the lady in front of me who’s actually trying to read a book in this dim light. Starting to feel like a stalker after about five minutes, I decide that I better make my move.
More than twenty minutes later, I am all puffed up with the sense of achievement, having successfully pinned down the poor poetess for a heart-to-heart. Over a glass of red she told me everything related to Laura Pugno. Okay, not really, but it was inspiring anyway. A warm and passionate lady, she entertained my questions with the enthusiasm of someone not yet tarnished by too many interviews.
The Interview (note: Laura’s answers are paraphrased and should be read with her endearing Italian accent in mind):
Q1: Have you been in China long for this trip? What fascinates you the most about Shanghai?
A1: I’ve been in Shanghai for a week, and this is my first time in Asia. I’m fascinated by the contrast between the super urban and modern and the older parts of the city. As soon as I got off the plane, I was also struck by the intense language barrier. It really becomes an exercise in trust, getting in a taxi cab and showing the driver a piece of paper, and hoping he will get you to the right place. The city feels very safe, which is quite amazing for such a big city.
So far, Laura has visited various must-sees like the Jade Buddha Temple and Yu Gardens, as well as hipper parts of town like Tai Kang Lu. The life of a Shanghai expat reminds her of her own experiences as a foreign student in London. She surmised that expats here must have a hard time crossing into local society, as the expat scene itself is so developed.
Q2: How would you describe your poetry: melancholy, joyous, philosophical?
A2: I would describe it as coming close to something that you cannot easily reach, like a quest.
Q3: Did you always know that writing was your calling? Is there anything that you dislike about the profession?
A3: I have been writing poetry since I was seven, so I guess I have always known! The thing I dislike the most about writing is the editing process. You’ve written the first draft of the novel, and now you have to go through the tedious step by step process of cleaning it up.
Q4: Any advice for a wanna-be novelist?
A4: Endurance. That’s the toughest thing about writing a novel. Poems are easier in that way. Perhaps when I am an old woman I may stick to poems!
Laura’s got a ways to go before she can be considered an old woman. Her third novel (We Are All Made of Glue) is on the way and hopefully more of her work will be translated into English soon.
Friday, January 09, 2009
Waiting for Tripe and Balls - a fragment
It’s a Friday night over here and we are anxious for the doorbell to ring, announcing the arrival of tonight’s delight – Vietnamese pho with “rare, flank, brisket, balls, tendon, tripe”. Nothing like an assortment of cow parts to get the evening going. Things couldn’t be better around the Lyman parts. Buddy Josh is hanging out with the Internet. Husband’s at his DJ booth, head-bopping to new and old records. “Just a little lovin’, early in the morning, just a little lovin’, early in the day…” reminds me of January 2006 when I was first introduced to his monkey mixing at a dark club. It has almost been three years to the day we married. Then again, I pretty much felt like we were married the day we met.
But enough cheese factor. The end of last year and start of this year are waiting to be summed up. We were chock-full of resolutions at the end of 2008. On the very last day of the year, we hiked to a little bay on the coast of Kona famous for sun-bathing tortoises, heading for a particularly inspiring tree we like to call the Planning Tree. Under its winding branches, we revisited the ups and downs, high-fives and do-overs of 2008 and got excited about the year to come. 2009 will be all about writing, writing, and writing. Getting healthier. Being stoked about each moment of every day. Taking it easy on the things that don’t matter and really going for the things that do. For the first time I feel like my life is my own. No one looking over my shoulder or demanding my attention. No more pushing myself down a track that I’ve been following since I was five.
Ah, five. What a magical year. My birthday present was piano lessons with an amazing teacher who not only saved me from the embarrassment of being Jan Chan, but also taught me how to spell. Newly arrived in a foreign country and thousands of miles away from relatives, my brother and I were blessed to have found much more than a piano teacher. Ms. Davison was more like a stern yet gentle grandmother. As it often goes in a family of hard-working immigrants, by five I was already fully apprised of the expectations to come. A’s were a given; A+’s were better. College of course, but not just any college. The very university that Ms. Davison herself attended circa 1933 was my final destination.
And there I went, circa 1995 after twelve years of mad studies. Then four years of not-so-mad studies; it was college after all. Then slaved and worked, worked and slaved in a soul-sucking, spine-buckling field for what seemed like forever. Then last September, I finally got around to quitting my job. It only took a few months for my shoulders to lose the up-around-the-ears look that I've had for as long as I can remember. I wake up every morning thankful for everything and stoked about the day. I practice unclenching my fists and find it easier and easier to let it all go.
So here’s to a brand new 2009: a year of Barack, letting go, and living the dream for the unforeseeable future. And here's to foot-stomping happy times in the days and months to come for every one of you out there. Except for you evil bastards - no foot-stomping times for you.